Sunday, 20 September 2009

A Coast to Coaster

The alarm went off at 6.30am this morning as we had intended to set off on today's final stage at about 7am, to ensure that we reached Robin Hoods Bay by mid-afternoon (in time for the minibus back to Kirkby Stephen).

Unfortunately, Leonie's ankle ligament damage was too much for her to come today. I know that she will feel frustrated at not being able to walk those last 16 miles but, as I made reference to in yesterday's blog, her achievement to get this far has been absolutely phenomonal and it simply means that she has an excuse to come up to this lovely part of the country next year to complete it.

I set off at about 7.20am in a sombre but defiant mood and as I headed uphill out of Grosmont, I was determined to enjoy this last stage as much as posible.

I made good time, but as a result of walking on my own and trying to get to Robin Hoods Bay as soon as possible, my shins soon began to ache and I had to slow down. Thankfully, there was a stretch along some moorland which softened the pounding on my feet - pounding which was softened even further as I took a running jump and ploughed knee high into an area of bog.

I took the last 3 miles around the coastline at a leisurely pace, hoping that some philosophical thoughts would come into my head which would ultimately lead me to a life changing decision. As it was, I just kept thinking about whether Tony Pulis would play Tuncay against Bolton this afternoon!

I arrived in Robin Hoods Bay at 12.50pm and was happy to see Leonie and her boyfriend Andy sat outside Wainwrights Bar. Leonie had got a taxi from Grosmont and Andy had driven up from Stafford early that morning.

As I dipped my toe in the North Sea and Andy kindly took the required photo, I turned around to see my Dad and my Sister, Sharon, walking towards us. They had driven up from Stoke on Trent this morning to meet me. I was lost for words really, as it was a really lovely touch. Leonie and Andy headed back to Stafford and the remaining three of us enjoyed a chocolate milkshake before my Dad and Sharon headed back and I got the minibus back to Kirkby Stephen.

Luckily, Leonie had insured me on her car before we left so I was able to drive back to Stafford and made good time - especially after I discovered 'The Motown Show' on 100.4 Smooth FM!

And so ended my 15 day/192 mile walk from St Bees Head to Robin Hood's Bay. I'm really glad I did it and do have a great sense of achievement, dampened to a degree by the last couple of days. Nevertheless, the countryside that I have seen and the people that I have met made this experience more of a holiday than I thought it actually would be.

A big thank you to all of you who have wished me well throughout the Walk, to those who have helped me raise money for Douglas Macmillan Hospice and to all other Coast to Coasters who I met on my travels - especially Jill, Tim, Michael, Rob, Evita, Rich and Nicola. Also thank you to Martin and Neil for joining us for part of the C2C.

Finally, a big thank you to Leonie for agreeing to take up the challenge in the first place, for putting up with my snoring, teeth grinding, singing and dancing during the last two weeks. I'm surprised, given the pain she has been suffering with, that I didn't get a walking pole wrapped round my neck.

And before you ask, no, I won't be doing it again - not for a few years anyway!

Jon
The Bearded, Sunburnt, Hobbling but Happy Rambler

Not Alot To Say

I could say alot of things about today but I will try and keep today's blog update as brief as I can.

In short, we had 23 miles of road and other hard terrain walking to do - including 2.5 miles of road walking just to get us back on the C2C path from where we had stayed in Great Broughton.

Leonie has been walking with ankle supports for the last 10 days and was walking from about 8 miles into today's walk in real pain. I could see that she was visibly limping with every step she took, and I knew it must be bad as she isn't the kind of person who makes it obvious when she is suffering.

We arrived in Glaisdale about 5pm, with 3 more miles to Grosmont but Leonie's ankle had had enough and she could walk no further. Neil, a friend who I met in China last year, had come to meet us in Glaisdale to walk to Grosmont with us and had luckily parked his car in Grosmont. So, Neil and I walked to Grosmont, collected his car and went back to Glaisdale to pick Leonie up.

At this stage, it isn't clear whether Leonie will be able to walk tomorrow's 16 miles to Robin Hood's Bay. It now seems that she has been walking for the last 10 days with ever worsening ankle ligament damage and she is in tremendous pain.

I don't have ankle ligament damage and my feet furt like hell so I dread to think the pain that she must be going through.

Whatever happens tomorrow, I would like to say that Leonie has demonstrated courage and determination that I have never seen before. Only today have I realised the true pain that she has been suffering for the last 100 or so miles. For her to come so far as she has (mentally and physically), she deserves the upmost respect and I doff my dirty, sun-bleached cap to her. I would like to know of any other Coast to Coasters who have gone through so much pain for such a long period of time just for the sake of walking from one place to another - which is, at the end of the day, what it is.

With hindsight I now think that I made a mistake in having two long days to finish - I mistakenly thought that our bodies would get stronger as we went on when in fact they are both beginning to show real signs of breaking down after 14 days and 170 odd miles of walking in all weathers and on all manner of surfaces.

Spirits are low tonight so we shall see what tomorrow brings.

Finally, just a special big thank you to Neil (aka Finners), who was our Knight in Shining Mini Cooper today.

The Good Samaritan

Today was back to what I would call 'proper walking'. The last couple of days through the Vale of Mowbray (Richmond to Danby Wiske and Danby Wiske to Ingleby Cross) were pleasant enough but it was all very flat. As we left our B&B, we immediately headed uphill through Arncliffe Wood onto Scarth Wood Moor, seeing countless Pheasants and even a lone deer.

I've received plenty of constructive feedback on my blog updates from you all (for which I am grateful - I think). As a result, today's blog is going to be food reference free.

So, I shall simply see that after crossing Scarth Wood Moor, we headed down to Lord Stone's Cafe which is a lovely little place set into the rock. It's well hidden and not something you would be able to find without a map.

After leaving the Cafe, we climbed further onto Kirby Bank where there were great views for miles around. We thought that we could even glimpse a ship of some kind in what must have been the North Sea.

As we hadn't got lost yet, it was clear that some minor event was bound to happen and sure enough, after placing my Coast to Coast book (complete with map) on the top of a signpost in order to get my mp3 player out and despite (i) Peter, a chap who we have met several times during our walk; and (ii) Leonie, both reminding me not to forget it, I absentmindedly wandered off and completed the next steep climb without it. Only when I reached the top did I realise that whilst I was holding my walking pole in my left hand, my right hand felt surprisingly redundant! The gods were smiling however as another chap who we have met several times along the way passed us bearing the said book. He had picked it up on the basis that the numpty who forgot it probably wouldn't be bothered to return for it. After learning that he was not staying anywhere near us that night, and realising that there were only two days to go and the chances of running into him again at a pub were very slim, I offered to buy him a pint for his samaritan-esque qualities!!

We headed down into Great Broughton with Rob and Evita who had caught us up and arrived at our destination about 4.30pm.

My delight at having completed day Day 13 was increased at finding out that not only did our room have a television in it but that it had Sky Sports! Whilst Leonie had an hour's kip, I had a lovely hour watching the cricket.

Tomorrow we have a long day ahead as we walk to Grosmont - home of the railway station where the Harry Potter films are filmed.

Wednesday, 16 September 2009

A Guest Coast To Coaster

I love hash browns. Whoever first made them needs some kind of honour - posthumous if necessary. As you are by now aware, I had a hash brown for breakfast. Not just a hash brown of course. To prevent it feeling lonely on the plate I had a fried egg and tomato as well! Martin arrived at about 9.30am and we were on the road just before 10am. Today was probably the easiest walk so far,just under 10 miles along more flat fields and road. It was great to catch up with Martin and we had a good old natter about football and Stoke which Leonie,bless her,has been unable to engage in! Even allowing for a few rests,we chalked off the miles really quickly and we were sat in the Blue Bell Inn at 1.50pm with Martin tucking into a portion of lasagne and chips. Martin then left us to get a taxi back to his car in Danby Wiske and Leonie and I carried on for a further mile to our accommodation for the nightm We are staying in the heart of Arncliffe Wood which is a fantastic setting. I have just dined on the finest salmon and had a great few hours at the table chatting with Rich and Nicola and Evita and Rob, two couples who we have got to know and who we have stayed with the last few nights. Tomorrow we enter our third national park, the North Yorkshire Moors, as we venture to Great Broughton.
Today we headed out of Richmond back into the wilderness of villages and hamlets. Before eaving however I made sure that I paid a visit to the pasty mecca of Greggs! Continuing my reborn health obsession-I had again given the fried breakfast a miss-I purchased a tuna sandwich instead of the sausage and bean melt that usually tugs at my heartstrings! We headed down through the town and once again followed the River Swale. We walked with a couple of South African girls for a few miles which was very enjoyable - I shall say nothing more on the subject! We left the two girls just outside Bolton on Swale as we stopped for lunch. Even female company comes second to Greggs!! The second part of today's walk involved quite a bit of road walking which was quite tough on my knees and ankles but it did mean that we clocked off the last few miles in good time,arriving at Danby Wiske at about 3.30pm. The one pub in the village closed-until November-so we went into nearby Northallerton with Paul for some tea and in mine and Paul's case,two fine pints of Timothy Taylor. Tomorrow we will be joined by my mate Martin who is driving over from Manchester to walk with us to Ingleby Cross.

Making A Meal Of It

Today saw the return of the fried breakfast. My arteries seemed sufficiently clear to merit another plate of cholesterol. We set off at about 9.30am and headed back onto the C2C route through the village. The countryside followed the same format as the last couple of days; rivers,fields,farms and most importantly,flat! The walk down into Richmond was lovely,not just because it signalled the end of the day's walk - at 2pm - but because of the view of the town itself and in particular the Castle. After having our now customary post walk showers and brews, we headed into town and had a walk around the Castle. I like medievel history - excuse the spelling - and I shall bore those of you who are interested in the history of the Castle and the town when I get back. For tea we headed to Richmond's premiere Indian restaurant where we arrived earlier enough to take advantage of,indeed.some would say abuse,the all you can eat buffet! The food was lovely and I thoroughly enjoyed my favourite meal.......seconds! You will all be pleased to now that I left room for my bag of liquorice allsorts which I had bought from the shop and consumed when we returned to the B+B!

A Big Decision

I made a big decision today. Some would say a life changing decision. It was a decision made by my head not my heart; a decision that caused me a sleepless night. I decided not to have a fried breakfast. Today was an ideal Sunday stroll of 11 miles through the heart of Swaledale. We set off at about 9.30am and made such good time following the River Swale that I rewarded myself with a chocolate milkshake and an apricot and ginger scone at a tea room in Gunnerside. Well, I hadn't had a fried brekkie had I?! We headed up onto the moor for the second half of the walk before dropping down into Reeth. Leonie and I had separate rooms for the first time on the trip. Her mum had been due to join us for a few days walking but unfortunately has recently ruptured her achilles. The lengths that some people will go to in order to avoid doing some of the C2C with us. Leonie had her mum's room though so I was able to revert to slob mode which was well needed! Tomorrow we have another short day of 10 miles, to the comparative metropolis of Richmond.